Berlin has been on the top of my 'to visit' list for a while now so when given the chance to choose where we went this summer it was an easy decision. For years I'd heard tales of Berlin's rich culture, vibrant society and emotional presence... I couldn't wait to indulge myself.
The S Bahn journey offered us our first glimpses of the many sides to this amazing city. We passed large construction sites, old buildings scarred with bullet holes, breathtaking architecture and hippy communes on the river side before arriving at our destination in Friedrichshain.
For those of you who don't know Berlin, Friedrichshain is part of former East Berlin and is home to a thriving artistic community. But as we all know where there is culture the capitalists are not far behind so the area is slowly getting more developed and rent is going up, pushing a lot of the creatives out. Thankfully though Friedrichshain is hanging on in there for now with some amazing wee cafes, bars, shops and markets to explore. A must see in this area is the artists community down by the Warschauer Strasse line where there is a collection of galleries such as Urban Spree, a printmaking studio, climbing wall, skate park and collection of nightclubs where we spent one night partying in til the very early hours one day. This area also houses some amazing pieces of street art and graffiti so is well worth a visit for that alone.
Across the bridge from here you are only a short walk away from East Side Gallery which is a free exhibition of murals painted on a remaining part of the Berlin Wall. A great example of Berlin's community taking something with negative memories and doing something positive with it in order to bring history alive and at the same time nurture their cities creativity. Ok not all the murals are mind blowing but it's still well worth a look, especially as big business is threatening to tear down this site and replace it with another generic office block of car park. From the end of the wall you can then cross the Oberbaum Bridge in to Kreuzberg and you're now in West Berlin. Kreuzberg is a pretty awesome part of the city to explore and is quickly taking over Friedrichshain's title of artist district. It might not seem as pretty, clean and outwardly welcoming but I urge you wander around and get lost. You'll discover some great wee eateries, riverside parties, amazing examples of street art by artists like BLU and a rich, diverse community that gives you a real insight to local life in Berlin.
History is everywhere in Berlin and it's hard to visit, explore or discuss the city without touching upon it's past, especially when there are so many visible reminders scattered across the city. The Berlin wall obviously still stands in sections which is impossible to experience without feeling a sense of how tough life behind it must have been. The centre of Berlin also seems like one big construction site, although some of this is due to what some are calling vanity projects this is also because they are still rebuilding parts of the city after it was pretty much flattened during the end of WW2. Bullet and shell holes are visible across many structures in the city as a powerful reminder of the conflict that once took place. Look down when you walk around the many areas of Berlin and you'll come across lots of small, brass cobbles which commemorate a Jewish person who died during the war placed in front of the building they used to live in. This all might sound very morbid but I think it's so important to experience these sights in order to learn, understand and feel emotion towards some of the darkest points in not just Berlin, but Europe's history.
Another section rich with history and culture and probably one of our favourite areas visited was one of the last remaining artistic communities in Mitte in Rosenthaler Straße. This part of Mitte was the cheapest area to live in once the wall came down so many creatives set up camp and it grew in to a thriving, buzzing community which quickly attracted the big businesses and pushed the less wealthy out. In Rosenthaler Straße however one street has survived and houses a collection of galleries, studios, pubs, a cinema and cafes that are run by the residing artists. The area has survived capitalism due to the fact local hero Otto Weidt's workshop, where he saved many Jewish people during the war, is on this street and so the street is listed. Walking through entrance you are blown away by the amount of amazing street art and the friendly buzz of this place. There is an amazing art shop featuring work by local artists where I could have spent hundreds in and the Otto Weidt museum is also well worth a visit to learn about this amazing man, his family and friends.
Berlin has everything you could possibly want to discover in a city. A thriving creative culture, determined and passionate locals, diverse communities, a rich history and exciting future. It's arrogant but humble, liberal but capitalist, poor but sexy. No matter what your background or interests there is something for everyone and I'm 100% convinced you will have a blast letting this city take you along for the ride, and if you're anything like us you really wont want to leave.
