Valparaíso is a coastal city of Chile, a mere forty five minute bus journey away from Ritoque or two hour bus journey from Santiago. Over the past few years the Valparaíso tourism has boomed with people flocking from all over the world to see this unqiue city which was recently declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003. Many people however turn there nose up at Valparaíso, calling it a dirty, ugly and a poor city. I guess that just depends on what your definition of ugly is.
There is no denying that Valparaíso isn't going to win any awards for cleanliness. The stench of urine is never far away and a lot the city centre buildings are crumbling and in due of a lick of paint. This is not due to laziness and probably has more to do with the fact that Valparaíso is one of Chile's poorest cities. The hundreds of colourful shanty town houses that fill the hills of this city and overlook the centre create a mixed bag of feelings. These very houses are the reason tourists come to Valparaíso and rightly so, they are utterly breathtaking. But as I wandered up the steep hills and through the zig zags of streets that lead us up to these houses it I couldn't help but feel sadness, inspiration and guilt. These houses are literally falling to pieces and yet the owners insure to keep on painting each and every one which entirely changes the aesthetic of this area. Whether this is for our benefit or their own I am not sure. I can only hope it is for their own pride and satisfaction as I am entirely convinced that no trickle down from tourism occurs up here in these hills. Which is a great shame.
We didn't spend long in this city, but long enough to wander around and see all the different areas and architecture. Valparaíso may not be conventionally pretty but if you're willing to open up your mind, look beyond the grime and recognise a different understanding of beauty then I truely believe it is impossible for anybody to label this wonderful city ugly.
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